Maftoul is an ancient traditional dish in Palestine. It’s also an ingredient: it is a larger couscous than we’re used to in the UK, made by hand-rolling wheat. Indeed, the word comes from fa-ta-la, which means to roll and twist, and it’s often done by Palestinian housewives. When cooked, these creamy little pearls add substance, soaking up the flavours of the dishes they accompany.
The most popular version of the dish is a combination of caraway, onions, stock and chicken, then served with thick goat’s yoghurt on the side. The recipe here is for a lighter version, and combines two traditional Palestinian dishes: maftoul tabbouleh and za’atar chicken.
My family comes from all over Palestine – Nazareth, Ramallah, Jaffa, Lydda, Safed and Bethlehem – so, luckily, my knowledge of our regional dishes is fairly broad. Za’atar chicken is famous all over Palestine but is eaten mostly around Jerusalem, possibly due to the large amount of wild thyme – an essential component in the herb blend – growing on the surrounding hills. The recipe usually calls for lemon, za’atar, salt and pepper with a dash of olive oil. I like to embellish it with a few other elements, such as dried mint for fragrant sweetness; pomegranate molasses for its sticky sourness, depth, richness and colour; and chilli flakes for a hit of heat.
This version of the za’atar chicken that accompanies the tabbouleh came about by accident when I ran my little deli in west London. I had some chicken that needed using up and I wanted to create something flavoursome and ultra-Palestinian in character. The ingredients are Middle Eastern storecupboard staples, so it was easily thrown together and replicated over the years. My customers loved it: I probably cooked more than 400 chicken legs a week for three years.
The first time I made this dish for my mother, she was able to identify each component without my telling her. She loved that I had used lots of ingredients that are so woven into the Palestinian landscape and larder. The za’atar chicken and maftoul tabbouleh work brilliantly together. They are uniquely and traditionally Palestinian, and make for a dish rooted in our heritage.
Za’atar chicken with maftoul tabbouleh
Serves 4
4 large chicken legs and thighs (in one piece) or 2-3 poussins
Olive oil
3 tbsp dried mint
5 tbsp pomegranate molasses
2 tbsp dried red chilli flakes
4 tbsp za’atar
1 tbsp flaky salt
For the tabbouleh
300g maftoul (also known as pearl couscous)
700ml water
4 tomatoes
A bunch of spring onions
A large bunch of flat-leaf parsley
Juice of 2-3 lemons
1 tbsp salt
Olive oil
To serve
1 pomegranate, seeded
1 red chilli, sliced
1 Preheat the oven to 200C/400F/gas mark 6.
2 Line a baking tray with greaseproof paper and put the chicken pieces or poussin on it. Season one side with half of the olive oil, mint, pomegranate molasses, chilli flakes, za’atar and salt. Then turn over and do the same with the other half. Cook skin side down in the oven for about 12 minutes.
3 While the chicken is cooking, boil the maftoul in water for 20 minutes, until it has just passed the al dente stage. Remove and rinse under cold water, then drain and set aside.
4 Meanwhile, chop the tomatoes and spring onions into small, equal-size pieces. Finely chop the parsley, being careful not to overdo it – you don’t want to bruise the leaves, which should remain firm and crisp.
5 Once the chicken has browned slightly, turn it over and cook skin side up for the remaining time – a further 12 minutes for the chicken, a little longer for the poussin. The total cooking time should be 20-22 minutes for the chicken, 25-30 for the poussin. If you need to add more of any of the herbs and spices, do so at this point. I usually add a little more za’atar and mint.
6 Mix the maftoul and the chopped tabbouleh ingredients together in a bowl. Add the lemon juice, salt and olive oil to taste. This salad should be sharp and tangy to contrast with the creaminess of the maftoul, and there should be plenty of parsley mixed through – it is essentially a parsley salad. Transfer to a deep dish and set aside.
7 When the chicken is cooked, place it on top of the tabbouleh and drizzle some of the cooking juices over. Serve sprinkled with the pomegranate seeds and sliced chilli.
- Joudie Kalla is a food writer and author of Palestine on a Plate (Jacqui Small); @palestinesplate
